
Solar eclipses are awesome spectacles of nature that are irresistible to photographers. Besides eclipses, the star at the center of our solar system is an amazing photographic subject—even when it is not being partially or totally blocked by the moon. If you want to photograph a solar eclipse, or just photograph the source of our fragile planet’s warmth and light, you need a solar filter for your lens. Let’s look at the different options available to photographers.
Photographs © Todd Vorenkamp
Safety
Before we begin…
WARNING!
Do NOT look through the OPTICAL VIEWFINDER of a camera when the lens is NOT protected by a filter that is specifically designed for SOLAR VIEWING.
Do NOT wear solar observing glasses and look through the OPTICAL VIEWFINDER of a camera when the lens is NOT protected by a SOLAR VIEWING filter.
These warnings are for OPTICAL VIEWFINDERS and do not apply if you are using a mirrorless camera’s electronic viewfinder, digital camera LCD screen, or Live View on the LCD screen on a DSLR.
All solar filtration, with the exception of H-Alpha filters and drop-in solar filters, should be mounted at the front of the camera’s optical system. If using an H-Alpha or drop-in filter, an IR/UV Cut filter at the front of the lens is recommended.
For more solar viewing and solar eclipse safety tips, please click here.
Types of Solar Lens Filters
We will discuss several types of solar filters in this article:
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Mylar® film white light solar viewing filters
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Heavy Neutral Density (ND) filters (minimum 16-stop)
We will also discuss UV/IR Cut filters but, these are NOT, on their own, solar photography filters.

Mylar® Film Solar Viewing Filters
Mylar® is a brand name for a polyester film that has dozens of uses, from wrapping Pop-Tarts to insulating spacecrafts to party and large balloons to… solar photography filters and solar glasses. Mylar® film solar filters are perfect for solar photography and solar viewing.

If you are using the optical viewfinder on a DSLR or another type of optic, you may look at the sun through a Mylar® filter mounted on the front of the lens. (Do NOT look through an unfiltered camera lens while wearing Mylar® solar glasses.)
When shopping (or owning) a Mylar® solar filter, you will see that the surface of the filter may be wrinkled. To a photographer, photographing through a non-uniform surface seems like a horrible idea, but these Mylar wrinkles will NOT affect image clarity and they are intentionally engineered into the film to reduce distortion.
Characteristics of a Mylar® solar lens filter:
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Less expensive than other types.
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Some filters render a whiteish or pale-yellow sun in photographs. Others may give a yellower color. The sun’s color can be changed in post processing.
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Not as durable as other types. The material is fairly fragile and, if a hole develops in the film, the filter must not be used.
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Avoid touching the film with your fingers. They may be cleaned with the same tools and methods you use for proper lens cleaning, but you must be careful not to puncture the Mylar.
White light solar viewing filters made from optical glass are not currently available at B&H. These glass filters are more durable than Mylar® and may show a more natural yellow-ish sun. The big catch: images with glass filters are not as sharp as with the Mylar® filters—a huge win for Mylar® filters!
Neutral Density Filters
ND filters simply darken an image. The advent of digital cameras and electronic viewfinders has made the ND filter a viable tool for solar photography—but NOT for solar viewing or using optical viewfinders.

For solar photography, you should use, at the minimum, a 16-stop ND filter.
Characteristics of an ND filter:
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CANNOT be used with optical viewfinders or to view the sun.
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More expensive than Mylar® filters.
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More durable than Mylar® filters.
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Easier to clean than Mylar® filters.
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Generally, the sun may be rendered more yellow with an ND filter than a Mylar® filter, but the color rendering is dependent on the specific ND filter. The sun’s color may appear very similar to what you get with Mylar® filters.
Photographers often ask if they can stack multiple less-than-16-stop ND filters to create a single 16-stop+ setup. The answer is, “Yes.” But, for every piece of glass you place between the sun and your lens, image quality gets degraded. We recommend using a single 16-stop+ ND filter for NON-OPTICAL VIEWFINDER solar photography.
Hydrogen Alpha / H-Alpha / Ha Filters
H-Alpha filters capture a very narrow band of sunlight and allow you to view details on the solar surface beyond sunspots. These electronic filters are often tuned to allow viewing of either solar prominences or chromosphere details.

H-Alpha filters require an electrical power source and can be mounted on telescopes between the scope and eyepiece, or on camera rigs between the camera and lens. Be sure to verify compatibility with your camera/lens mount or scopes. Additionally, H-Alpha filter manufactures often recommend the use of UV/IR Cut filters when doing extended observations.
UV/IR Cut Filters
UV/IR Cut filters are sometimes added to solar viewing setups to help reduce the amount of UV or IR radiation that reaches the H-Alpha filter and/or camera sensor. They also assist in accurate focusing when using H-Alpha filters.

WARNING: These filters are NOT stand-alone solar filters for photography and viewing. These filters can be combined with different solar filters for an added level of specific protection.
UV/IR Cut filters are not required add-ons for Mylar® or ND filter setups, but they may improve sharpness or detail.
Styles of Solar Photographic Filters
Solar photography filters generally come in four types: threaded, slip-on covers, square, and drop-in filters.
Threaded filters are like standard photographic filters and screw onto your lens’s threaded front opening. The advantage of these is that they are very secure once in place and their operation is familiar to most photographers.
Slip-on cover "universal" filters are more universal in nature and cover the entire front of your lens. They are available in sizes that cover large lenses and telescopes and are very easy to don and doff. That ease of operation can be beneficial during a total solar eclipse because you can go from photographing the “diamond ring effect” to removing the filter and photographing totality within seconds. A threaded filter will require more time to remove. If they are not secured properly, they can be knocked off easily. Again, do not fret over the fact that the Mylar® material on these filters is not super smooth—the wrinkles do not affect image quality. For very large telephoto lenses, you might find that a telescope slip-on solar filter works for the large objective lens.

Square solar filters, like their mainstream square photo filter compeers, require a special filter holder to secure them in front of the lens. If you already have a square filter system, adding square solar filters to your quiver might make good sense.

For large telephoto lenses, drop-in ND-style solar filters are available. If you have a lens that accepts drop-in filters, you may want to use these drop-in solar filters in conjunction with an IR/UV Cut filter at the front of the optic as you would with an H-Alpha filter. Since the drop-in solar filters are ND-style, do NOT use them with optical viewfinders.
Do you have questions about solar filters for photography? What filters have you tried? Which ones do you love? Let us know in the Comments section, below!
23 Comments
Although I have been doing astrophotography for several years, I finally shot the sun today for the first time. With a Nikon D850, Celestron Nexstar 8SE and solar filter. Exposure was 1/250 @ ISO 100. Focusing was easy looking through the eyepiece but not as easy using live view as it was a little difficult to see the LCD clearly. Overall I was pleases with the results, there were several sunspots and a couple of weak solar flares. I will definitely be shooting it again! I look forward to the next eclipse.
Hello!
I will be attempting my first eclipse in 4/2024 and am thinking of using the Sony ASiii with the Sony FE 100-400mm f/4.5 - 5.6 G OSS telephoto lens with a 2x teleconverter.
I’d like to capture all let’s if the eclipse, in particular the diamond ring, bailey’s beads, and the corona. As a result, high-quality and ease of removal and replacement are priorities. Based on your article, it seems a slip-on / slip-off Mylar filter would be best. Do you agree? And could you please recommend one which would fit my lens well?
Todd V:
I have a Nikon D7500 DSLR camera. I want to take pictures of the eclipse in April. I haven't had an opportunity to use the camera much so I'm still learning. What type of filter do I need to be able to safely take pictures of the eclipse?
Thanks!
Ralph
Hi Ralph,
Thanks for reading! The answer to your question is in the article above. But, what lens are you planning on using?
You will need a filter that is safe for solar viewing as you are using a DSLR. Do NOT use a heavy ND filter and your optical viewfinder together!
Thanks for reading!
Best,
Todd
Dear Todd,
Thanks so much for your great reviews and advice. I did some photography of the 2017 eclipse with my canon 7D, 70-200 2.8 lens, and a borrowed Thousand Oaks solar filter. The results were terrific (beginners luck). I have now progressed to a Canon R8 and was photographying the Annular Eclipse using the R8, 100-400 lens, and a 'solar filter' that was purchased at the last minute. I was not very happy with the results as the image was soft. The filter was one of the universal cover type and was mounted close to the lens - not to the lens hood. I was at B&H a few weeks ago and they advised a 77mm 18 stop ND filter which i purchased. I carried out an extensive comparison of my kit: ND and universal filter, the two lenses (plus and minus 1.4 extender), on the R8 and 7D. The results were pretty clear: the screw on filter provided a much greater clarity for the images and focused very nicely for both cameras, with 200 or 400, and with or without 1.4 extender. However, the image did not have much colour and was mostly shades of grey. The universal filter image was very soft, almost a small imperceptible double image, however the colour was much more of the yellow/orange colour that i expected and saw from the Thousand Oaks filter. Does this make sense and am i better off finding a good quality universal filter that will provide good optics and also allow for quick change during totality (or just use two cameras!). Thanks very much for your great information. Ken
Hey Ken,
Thanks for the kind words on the article!
I used a Thousand Oaks filter for the 2017 eclipse and will be using one for the 2024 show as well. B&H used to carry them, but stopped for some reason...unfortunate. :(
I think folks have gotten different mileage out of Mylar filters. I have been happy with the ones I have tried, and never really saw a difference in sharpness/quality...only color reproduction.
And, yes, ND filters might give you a dull gray sun. You could always add color in post production, if you wanted to go that way.
The good news for eclipse photographers is there are many sunny days between now and the next eclipse to try different configurations of gear and decide which one works best for you.
Having said that, I need to get out and do some solar photos soon!
I hope that answered your question. Standing by for follow-ups!
Thanks for reading!
Best,
Todd
Looking for the correct filter to use for the sun , and the eclipses, I am using a Canon 5d MKlll with a Canon 400mm L lens, Thank You
Hi Terry,
Sorry for the delay in replying...I am no longer at B&H and these comments get forwarded to me.
I think this one will work with your 400mm lens: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1336281-REG/mrstarguy_sgft043b_a…
But, break out a ruler and measure the outside diameter of the front of your lens before you purchase to verify my math!
Let me know if you have other questions!
Best,
Todd
HI Todd
I have a Canon EOS M50 Mark II with a 55-200mm lens. I just purchased a MrStarGuy mylar solar filter and took solar photos using an Auto setting. The image is sharp but is too washed out to see visible sunspots in the image. Current images from the National Solar Observatory indicated that there were small sunspots. Do you have any suggestions for Manual settings that would overcome this issue.
Thanks
Cliff
Hey Cliff,
Thanks for mentioning this.
In my experience, when I overexpose the sun, I lose out on smaller surface detail. Also, critically precise focus is needed.
Did you dial back the exposure at all to get a darker image? You'll also want to use spot metering as matrix or multi-segment will try to balance the exposure between the bright sun and the inky black of outer space. For focus, was the edge of the solar disk sharp?
Or, when you say, "washed out," did you mean that the overall photo was fuzzy as if you'd taken an image through a shower curtain? Or was it just overall pretty bright?
Standing by for follow-ups!
Best,
Todd
Hi Mark, I have the Nikon Z8 and plan on using it to photograph the entire April 8th, 2024 Total Eclipse. Can you please tell me the filter or filters that I should get for the best results. I want to get great pictures, but protect my camera and lens. Thank you!
Hi Nancy,
I don't know if you were looking for Mark B., or for me, the author of the article, but I will jump in anyway...
Please tell me what lens/lenses you plan on using for the Z8.
Thanks!
Best,
Todd
Hello. Thanks for all the info. For Solar Eclipse, I'd like the best option that will protect the camera, my eyes, best quality photo, allow for looking through Viewfinder while photographing the sun /eclipse. Quality and convenience over price. I have a Canon R, with 500mm Canon lens. Thanks in advance for your opinion!
Hi Mark,
You are welcome! Because you are using a mirrorless digital camera, you don't need a solar filter that protects your eyes or eyes through an optical viewfinder.
I also shoot mirrorless cameras, and, as you can see in the images above, I have both Mylar and ND filters for my camera/lenses, but I prefer how the sun is rendered through my Mylar filter than the ND filters due to the color of the sun in the images.
If you are going the ND filter route, I might suggest the added protection of a UV/IR cut filter.
If you would like more specific recommendations, may I ask what model 500mm lens you are using?
Thanks for reading, Mark!
Best,
Todd
Thanks Todd... so looking theough the Canon R viewfinder is ok without a filter?
My lens is the Canon 100-500 4.
Hit send too fast. But yes, Canon 100 - 500. Thanks foe thw quick response.
Hey Mark,
Yes, when you look through your electronic viewfinder you are basically looking at a TV screen—none of the radiation is getting to your eyes.
Thanks for clarifying the lens...I am a fan of this filter if you want a slip-on/off solar viewing filter: B&H SKU STSGFT040
If you are going the ND route, there are a bunch of brands that make 77mm filters.
I see the NiSi ND filters have built-in UV/IR cut, but if you want a separate filter there are several to choose from. (Sorry, the system is not letting me post links.)
Standing by for questions!
Oh, and most importantly, do NOT watch the entire eclipse through your viewfinder...you will be missing out on the majesty of the experience! Use you own eyes or, even better, a pair of binoculars (both filtered when needed)! Please trust me on that!
Best,
Todd
Hi Todd, great article! have two questions:
1-I heard that Sony sensors, in my case a7RIII, have already an IR blocker filter, in that case is it safe to make a time lapse with a 16 stop ND filter with a 900mm lens?
2-Also, what about info infrared filters, I have an IR760, can I use it in a second camera as I don't have a second 16 ND filter?
Hey Oscar,
Thanks for the kind words!
Answers (kind of!):
1) I cannot confirm that the a7RIII has an IR filter after a very quick Internet search, but I will tell you that a UV/IR Cut filter might be a err-on-the-side of safety investment. They are mostly clear filters (not that having more darkening would be a negative when doing solar photography) and a quality one will not effect sharpness. With a 900mm lens, I would be tempted to add one just to be super safer.
2) I have never heard of IR filters, aside from UV/IR Cut filters being used for solar imaging, but you could always try it.
The cool thing about solar eclipse photography is that you can practice any time the sun is out. Spend a weekend shooting the sun with your gear and see what results you get. In 2017, I had a 300mm f/4 lens pointed at the sun all day long without a UV/IR Cut filter and had no issues with heat—even on a warm day in Nashville.
Standing by for follow-up questions!
Best,
Todd
Hi, Todd. Would a graduated ND filter be usable for a landscape shot of the upcoming annular eclipse? If so, is there such a thing as a ten stop GF for a 95mm lens mount?
Hey Ryan,
Thanks for the question!
Safety First: an ND filter will not protect your eyes from the sun's harmful rays, so, if you are using a DSLR or other camera with an optical viewfinder, do NOT look through the viewfinder with an ND or GND filter.
Now that we got that out of the way, I would NOT recommend using a GND filter for the annular eclipse. I know some folks have captured the ring of fire with some good foreground detail, so look at their photos and dig into their settings (if you can) or...maybe create an HDR image or composite of the scene after shooting with proper filtration.
When you see photos of an annular eclipse, it looks like the sun isn't very bright in many photos. This is NOT the case. You are seeing a ring of fire through a solar filter. Unfiltered, the sun will be almost as bright as it is on a non-eclipse day—impossible to look at directly and sunny enough to give you a sun burn!
And...the most stops you can get on a GND is 5-stops currently...not sufficient for solar work.
Standing by for more questions!
Thanks for reading!
Best,
Todd
I was curious about safe use, time for a mirrorless sensor, exposed to the sun. Using a ND filter 5.4 18 stop, or mylar. Such as how long you can, keep the sensor pointed, at the full sun, or different stages of an eclipse, with a telephoto lens 300mm+.
Hey Joseph,
In 2017, I pointed a mirrorless camera with a Mylar filtered 300mm lens at the sun for the complete duration of the eclipse (removing the filter for totality) with no ill effects.
Having said that, atmospherics chance from day to day, so I can only share my experience and cannot make any guarantees. A UV/IR Cut filter should provide additional thermal protection if you are worried.
Thanks for the question and thanks for reading!
Best,
Todd