How often do you clean your tech? If your answer is “rarely, never,” or “I didn’t know my tech needed to be cleaned,” you’re not alone. Springtime is all about cleaning and, while you’re busy folding clothes, organizing drawers, and dusting shelves, your computer is slowly suffocating. It’s easy to overlook cleaning your beloved PC or your favorite pair of headphones in the bump and grind of daily life, but you’ll want to address that accumulating filth sooner or later. You shouldn’t put it off for too long. If left powered on, a computer will slowly build up dust, which can impede airflow, resulting in higher temperatures and possibly hardware failure. Try swiping your fingertip across the top of it and see how much dust it has picked up. Now try the same with areas near a vent. In this cleaning guide, we’re not only going to cover PCs but also peripherals.
So, gear up because we’re going bunny hunting. (Dust bunnies, of course!) Doing so has obvious hygienic and aesthetic benefits, but a nice deep clean can also improve your gear’s functionality and lifespan. So, in the interest of protecting your hard-earned investments, follow along as we share cleaning tips for your beloved tech.
How to clean a PC
How to clean a laptop
How to clean a keyboard
How to clean a mouse
How to clean earbuds
How to clean over-ear headphones
How to Clean PC Desktops
PCs are particularly vulnerable to dust. Gradual buildup will impede airflow and cause high temperatures, poor performance, and in the worst cases, hardware failure. To combat this, a light cleaning once every three to six months is recommended to keep your PC healthy. You’ll also want to deep clean your unit once or twice a year to retain its optimal performance. If you have shedding pets, carpeting, or work near dust magnets like air vents, windows, and air conditioning units, your PC might need more frequent cleaning. To keep things cool and operational, desktops are outfitted with intake and exhaust fans. These fans usually have a grille or dust filter of some sort covering them that’s probably lined with dust by now. So, your weapon of choice? The METROVAC DataVac. As opposed to compressed air that comes in disposable cans, the DataVac is a compact dusting unit with a 500W motor capable of producing 70CFM of air flow. Since I own one, I can say, yes, it pushes a lot of air and yes, it’s quite loud when in use. Why would you use it rather than canned air? Because it’s more powerful, cost-effective, and comes with multiple nozzle attachments for different scenarios.
Before getting started, you’ll want to have the following:
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Cotton swabs
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Isopropyl alcohol
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Compressed air or an electric duster
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Screwdriver
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Face mask and eye protection
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Non-conductive working surfaces
Now Let’s Prep
Find a well-ventilated area and open any windows or work outside. Set aside a trinket dish for collecting small parts like screws. If you’re using an electric duster, organize its attachments and make sure you have access to an outlet. If you’re using compressed air, have a few different straw lengths on hand to tailor your reach.
If you’re using isopropyl alcohol, 90% is generally recommended for PC cleaning due to its purity and evaporation speed, but lower percentages are also safe and effective. Products like CRC Contact Cleaner are favored for this purpose and can be found in most automotive and hardware stores.
Safety Precautions
Ensure your working surface is clean and non-conductive, and ground regularly while handling internal components. We don’t recommend handling certain components like the power supply unit (PSU), but if you must, always make sure they are powered off and incorporate anti-static gear for extra safety.
Exercise caution while using isopropyl alcohol because it is highly flammable. Avoid any circuitry and transistors, and do not spray it directly on components. You’ll also want to be careful with compressed air, which is dangerous when inhaled. Finally, wear a face mask and eye protection if you’re sensitive to dust.
All set? Let’s get started: Now that you’re ready, let’s get to it!
Turn off your computer and unplug all devices, peripherals, and cables from the desktop, including the power cable. If your PSU power supply has an off switch, turn it off to drain any residual power.
Move your unit somewhere you won’t mind having dust everywhere, preferably outside.
Connect your electric duster DataVac to an accessible outlet nearby or get your cans of compressed air ready.
Open your computer case. Many cases use thumb screws, which can be removed by hand, but have a screwdriver handy just in case. Put the screws in a safe place for reassembly later.
Remove both side panels and the back and front panels if possible. Find and remove any dust filters, as well, which are typically on the bottom or front of your case. Don’t forget to check the bottom.
Thoroughly dust both sides of each panel with compressed air, an electric duster, or a microfiber cloth. You can also use a damp cloth or wet wipe to tackle stubborn dust. Avoid getting any liquid on ports and electronic components, and wipe the panels dry afterwards.
Thoroughly dust your filters using compressed air or an electric duster. You can also rinse your dust filters under hot water, but ensure they are completely dry before reassembly.
Clean them using the DataVac/compressed air. Be thorough and dust both sides.
Locate any exterior vents or crevices and clean them with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab.
Clean your internal components with compressed air or a microfiber cloth, paying special attention to the hard-to-reach areas.
For the internals, since the DataVac is quite strong, I’d suggest using it in short bursts and at a distance. Aim it at wherever you see dust, but not at the fans, yet. Dust the motherboard, ports, the space in-between the RAM modules, storage drives, graphics card, power supply, and so on. You can remove components if needed. (This is where the DataVac’s multiple nozzle attachments come in handy. Some places are hard to reach, and some dust particles won’t let go without a light brush.)
Electric dusters can be particularly harsh on internal components, so use them carefully. Your computer’s fan, for example, might break if spun too fast or in the wrong direction. Additionally, do not spray isopropyl alcohol into or around your fan’s motor housing because it can ruin the lubricant.
This cleanse will be more than sufficient for light maintenance, but it might not be enough for an especially dirty PC. In that case, you will want to identify any components that need a deeper clean and remove them. Doing so will also make crevices and other components easier to reach.
To deep clean your PC, you’ll want to locate any components or areas that need cleaning, and address obstructions. You might need to undo your cable management, drain your cooling system, or remove other components to accomplish this. Keep in mind that certain components will require specific products for reinstallation, so prepare accordingly. The heatsink, for example, will need new thermal paste if you decide to take it out.
Remove components, carefully following any processes specified for each one. This will be easier for anyone who has built a PC, but you can always refer to your PC’s user manual and online resources like YouTube for detailed, step-by-step instructions.
Place any components you remove on a clean, grounded surface and dust with compressed air or a microfiber towel. For stubborn grime, apply isopropyl alcohol with a microfiber towel or cotton swab.
Thoroughly clean the internal cavity with compressed air or a microfiber towel. You can also apply short, distanced air bursts with the electric duster. Use cotton swabs or an elongated straw attachment on either dusting tool to reach difficult areas.
And that’s pretty much it. Give everything a once-over before you replace the panels. It doesn’t need to be spotless, but do ensure there are no visible dust bunnies hanging around. This is also the perfect time to redo your cable management.
With the cleaning out of the way, you just need to reassemble your PC. Wait until everything is completely dry, then backtrack each step until you’re ready to power up your device again. Once this is done, you can run a few tests to check that everything is working correctly.
How to Clean a Laptop
Cleaning your laptop is a different process from cleaning your PC because of its portability. Many of us tote a laptop 24/7 between home and work, and even around the house while cooking, cleaning, eating, etc. Regardless of how you use it, your laptop has likely accumulated a variety of grime, so it’s worth cleaning every 3-6 months. You don’t really need special products or screen cleaners here―just some basic tools and a little patience will make your laptop look brand new.
Laptops are either easy to clean or a bit more involved. Since many trending systems now are focusing on portability, they feature a unibody design with no visible fans and minimal vents (if any). With these, there’s not really much to clean aside from the exterior, screen, and keyboard, which a microfiber cloth will do. Take your time cleaning and be extra cautious on the display so you don’t scratch it. Some water on the cloth can be used on stubborn smudges. Stay away from chemical solutions and isopropyl alcohol because they could discolor the system or strip the lettering from keys. Also, consider getting a case or screen protector. As for systems with removable panels and larger vents, your best bet is a can of compressed air and some wet cotton swabs. When cleaning the vents, spray in bursts to prevent damaging the fans inside.
Before getting started, you’ll want to have the following:
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Compressed air
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Isopropyl alcohol
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Microfiber towel
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Small dental cleaner or toothbrush
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Screwdriver
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Cotton swabs
Now Let’s Prep
Find a well-ventilated area, a stable surface to work on, and set up your cleaning supplies. Give yourself ample room to avoid spills, and cushion your laptop as needed.
All set? Let’s get started. Unplug your laptop from its power source and turn it off. Disconnect peripherals and remove any cases, sleeves, and coverings.
Determine whether your laptop can open and have a screwdriver handy. If it can, unscrew the back panel and remove the battery. Apply small amounts of compressed air to remove any dust inside. Make sure to avoid directly blasting the fragile internal fan with compressed air. You can also gently wipe away dust with a microfiber towel. Then put the battery back inside and reattach the back panel.
Give your laptop a quick, preliminary wipe-down with a dry microfiber towel. If it’s particularly dirty (or crumby), gently tap the back to shake out loose debris.
Apply small amounts of compressed air to your keyboard, ports, and vents. This will dislodge most debris, dust, and crumbs. Pay special attention to any small openings and the areas between your keyboard keys.
If you have stubborn crumbs stuck in your keycaps or ports, it’s time to break out the dental cleaner or toothbrush. Using minimal pressure, scrub around your keys and ports to dislodge anything that’s stuck. Avoid sticking the implement inside ports or under keycaps.
For sticky spots on your laptop, apply small amounts of isopropyl alcohol to a cotton swab and rub the area to clear away gunk. This might take a few passes, so be patient! And make sure to not oversaturate your cotton swab with liquid.
To clean dust, fingerprints, and smudges from your laptop screen, you only need a microfiber towel and a little water. First clear away any dust with a dry microfiber towel, then tackle the tougher fingerprints and smudges with a slightly damp microfiber towel. Avoid using circular motions, which can spread grease or grime around your screen. Instead, use light pressure and vertical or horizontal movements.
If your laptop has a case, it can be washed with regular dish soap and water. You can also remove stickers or sticker residue with a bit of Goo Gone. Just make sure all your accessories are completely dry before reattaching them.
And with that, your laptop should feel much cleaner. If these methods don’t do the trick, it might be time for a professional cleaning from your laptop’s manufacturer or a third party. If you’re worried about potentially voiding your laptop’s warranty, you should go through your manufacturer. You might also consider cases, screen protectors, keyboard skins, barriers, and port covers to make your next cleaning a bit easier.
Now let's take a look at cleaning peripherals.
How to Clean a Mechanical Keyboard
Keyboards, like laptops, are susceptible to grime and need cleaning every so often. Crumbs, dust, and natural wear eventually show up on a well-loved keyboard, so let’s give that humble accessory a little TLC.
The keyboard is probably one of the filthiest items in your house, especially if you eat food over it. Seriously. Take a good look and see if you can spot the dust, grime, crumbs, hair, chips, and whatever else is hidden in between the keys. It gets even worse with greasy and Doritos-covered fingers, which invite more dust and things to stick to it.
Before getting started, you’ll want to have the following:
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Compressed air or electric duster
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Isopropyl alcohol
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Keyboard cleaning brush or toothbrush
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Keycap puller or flat object like a screwdriver/butter knife
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Microfiber towel
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Cotton swabs
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Bowl
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Dish soap
Now Let’s Prep
Find a well-ventilated area with a stable working surface and set up your cleaning supplies. Mix a little dish soap with warm water in a bowl and set it aside. Take a photo of your keyboard to help you remember where your keycaps go. This will make reassembling everything much easier later on. If you know where every key goes by heart, good for you.
All set? Let’s get started. Disconnect any cabling from your keyboard. Using your puller, begin gently removing your keycaps. Make sure to pull straight and upward to avoid breaking your keycaps. You can also use a credit card, screwdriver, and even your fingers to remove keycaps, but bear in mind that these methods are tedious and can damage your keyboard.
Put the keycaps in the bowl of soapy water as you remove them. Let them sit for 10–30 minutes (or longer if you want) and occasionally stir the contents with your hand. You can also scrub your keycaps with either a fresh, soft-bristled toothbrush or a cotton swab.
While your keycaps bathe, clear away dust on your keyboard with compressed air or an electric duster. Use a cotton swab with a little isopropyl alcohol to clean the areas between the switches.
For tough grime, apply a little isopropyl alcohol to a keyboard brush or toothbrush and scrub the area. Be mindful of any extra liquid and dab away wet areas with a microfiber towel.
Remove keycaps from the bowl and either air or towel dry.
Once everything is dry, begin reassembling your keyboard. Reseat each keycap by pressing down until you hear or feel it pop into place. Plug your keyboard back in and test it to make sure everything is working properly.
Your mechanical keyboard should look and feel much nicer now. If you’re unable to remove your keycaps, you can alternatively follow our steps for cleaning a laptop keyboard. You might also consider getting a keyboard vacuum for more regular cleanings, especially if you’re a big desktop snacker. This gadget is unlike your typical household vacuum because it offers gentle suction levels and attachments to clean this delicate piece of equipment. If your keyboard gets crumby, a quick clean with one of these will help keep everything fresh, functional, and critter-free.
Finally, put them back in place. Optimally, get a keyboard cover to keep your keyboard clean when it’s not in use.
How to Clean a Mouse
Your computer mouse is probably looking pretty shabby next to your freshly cleaned gear, so let’s clean it next. The cleaning process is nearly identical across optical, gaming, mechanical, and ergonomic mice, so it should be a comparatively quick task.
Before getting started, you’ll want to have the following:
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Compressed air
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Microfiber towel
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Toothpicks
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Isopropyl alcohol
Now Let’s Prep
Find a well-ventilated area with a stable working surface and set up your cleaning supplies. A desk lamp or flashlight might also be helpful while cleaning the tiny gaps and grooves in your mouse.
All set? Let’s get started. Power off and/or unplug your computer mouse. Remove batteries if possible. If you use a mechanical mouse, remove the housing and pop out the trackball.
Go over any compartments with compressed air or a dry microfiber towel to clear away dust. This includes the LED for optical mice, and the trackball housing interior for mechanical mice.
Use a toothpick (or a similar object) to scrape any grips, seams, and niches where crumbs and debris might be stuck. Pay special attention to your scroll wheel and give it a spin while you clean it. Make sure to apply gentle pressure to avoid breaking your toothpick and damaging your mouse. For mechanical mice, use the toothpick to remove any buildup within the trackball housing.
Spray compressed air along the grips, seams, and niches to clear away remaining grime.
Dampen a microfiber towel with water and gently wipe down your mouse. Flip it over and clean whatever’s latching onto the mouse feet, the sensor and the area around it, as well as the gaps in between the scroll wheel and buttons. For the exterior, some water on a cloth goes a long way. If you have a device with a rubbery coating, avoid chemical solutions and isopropyl alcohol at all costs, because they can strip the coating away. Speakers can be cleaned too. Give them a light dusting with a soft brush or a microfiber cloth.
For tougher grime, dampen a microfiber towel with isopropyl alcohol and go over your mouse again. If you use a mechanical mouse, use the same process to clean your trackball. Dry your mouse and components completely and reassemble if applicable. Reconnect and power on your mouse.
Voilá! You now have a clean mouse. Now that everything looks shiny and brand new again, continue practicing good hygiene habits. It’s worth noting that this clean will probably not tackle the discoloration that results from months or years of extended use. Every mouse is different, so you will want to check online resources and the manufacturer’s website for cleaning methods.
How to Clean Earbuds
Yucky earbuds are a small but noticeable detail, kind of like having dirty fingernails or bad breath. Appearances aside, a good clean will keep your earbuds hygienic and sounding fresh. Best of all, it’s a quick and easy process!
Before getting started, you’ll want to have the following:
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Cotton swabs
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Isopropyl alcohol
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Dish soap
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Microfiber towel
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Toothpicks
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Toothbrush
Now, Let’s Prep
Check your manufacturer’s website first for specific care tips, especially if your ear tips are not silicon or cannot be removed. Additionally, isopropyl alcohol can remove the paint or coatings on some products, so make sure that it’s safe to use on your earbuds before you start. If you can’t use isopropyl alcohol on your earbuds, make sure to avoid getting any water in the speaker mesh, microphone vents, and the charging ports. Fill a small bowl with warm water and a little dish soap and set it aside.
All set? Let’s get started. If your earbuds have silicon tips, remove them, and put them in the bowl or run them under some warm water. Scrub grime with a cotton swab, microfiber towel, or a clean toothbrush. Handle gently to avoid accidental tears.
Give your earbuds a wipe-down with a damp microfiber towel to remove any surface grime.
Use a toothpick or a dry cotton swab on the internal speaker mesh to gently remove wax buildup and dirt. Apply gentle pressure to avoid pushing buildup further into the mesh.
For stubborn grime on the mesh, use a little isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab to loosen it up. Then, use a clean swab or a toothpick to remove it. Do not use soapy water on this component.
Apply a little isopropyl alcohol to a microfiber towel and gently wipe the driver, sensors, and any cabling if applicable.
If your earbuds have a charging case, clear away surface grime with a dry microfiber towel or toothbrush.
Use a dry cotton swab to clean out the inside and small crevices. Repeat this process with a little isopropyl alcohol on a swab for tough grime. Avoid the charging ports. Make sure everything is completely dry before reassembly.
You’re all set now. How often you need to clean your earbuds depends on your usage and hygiene but check on how they’re holding up every 2 months or so. Your earbuds and your ears will thank you.
How to Clean Over-Ear Headphones
Although over-ear headphones aren’t going directly in your ears like earbuds, they still need a good cleaning every 2-4 months. Hair products, sweat, makeup, dandruff, and ambient pollutants are but a few of many things your cans soak up every day! So, let’s clean them.
Before getting started, you’ll want to have the following:
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Microfiber towel
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Isopropyl alcohol
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Laundry detergent
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Cotton swabs
Now, Let’s Prep
Check to see if your headphones’ manufacturer has specific cleaning instructions, and defer to them for specific dos and don’ts. If your headphones feature leather or faux leather detailing, you can spot test them with isopropyl alcohol before cleaning, but a little bit is generally safe. If you plan to use laundry detergent, set aside a small bowl, and mix 1 teaspoon of detergent with 1 cup of warm water. Have at least two towels for cleaning and drying your headphones. Remove and set aside the earcups if possible.
All set? Let’s get started: Give your headphones a wipe-down with a dry microfiber towel to remove any surface grime and dust. Use a dry cotton swab on the internal mesh and around buttons.
Lightly dampen a towel with either water, detergent solution, or a small amount of isopropyl alcohol and wipe the headphones. Hold the headphones upside down to protect vulnerable areas from excess liquid.
Clean the headband and earcups with a damp towel or cotton swab. Be mindful of any creases and work tough grime with gentle rubbing for around a minute to loosen it up. You might need to repeat this step a few times if your headphones are particularly dirty. If your headphones become noticeably damp with repetition, pat dry, and then air dry them completely before cleaning them again.
Repeat this process for cabling and accessories like a case. For tough stains, a little scrubbing with a Magic Eraser will usually do the trick on cases and accessories. Just be sure to wipe away any soapy residue with a damp towel. Allow everything to dry completely before reassembly.
Regularly cleaning your over-ear headphones is always a good idea, but there are also all kinds of covers and cases to help protect components like the headband and cups from grime. Like laptop cases and keyboard covers, these accessories come in an array of colors and are generally easy to clean. They’re not for everyone, but if your headphones get dirty easily, or if you often share them with others, they are worth checking out.
This concludes our little tech cleaning rundown. We hope you give your most-used tech some TLC with confidence, and maybe develop some healthy habits to practice moving forward. If you have any tried-and-true tech cleaning tips to share, let us know! Drop your favorite cleaning hacks and products in the Comments section, below.
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